One great perk of being friends with a chef: they teach you how to open scallops. Once you know how, you can skip the queue at the fish stall — those ahead of you often need their scallops opened and cleaned, while you can politely ask to buy yours ready to go. It’s a small, satisfying moment to imagine the fishmonger admiring your skill: “She opens her own scallops.”
Here’s how to do it correctly. Hold the scallop shell horizontally in your left hand with the flat side up and the round edge facing you. Use a round-tipped knife, insert the blade into the opening on the right side of the shell and work it toward you, rotating the knife slightly so the two halves separate enough to slip the meaty tip of your left thumb into the gap and keep it open.
At this stage you’ll notice how vigorously the scallop tries to keep its shell closed. Carefully keep control — you’re the stronger one here.
Using the dull side of the knife blade, scrape the inside of the top shell with short strokes moving away from you. After a few gentle scrapes the scallop will give way and the top shell will lift off cleanly; discard that top shell.
Press your left thumb firmly on the scallop muscle to stabilize it. With the knife in your right hand, slide the tip of the blade under the grey-black mass just above the muscle. Gently hold that mass between the knife and your right thumb, lift it slightly, and pull toward you. As you pull, a thin skin will peel away from the muscle and the innards (in French called “barbes,” literally “beards”) should come away cleanly with it.
You’ll be left with the plump, edible muscle resting on the soft pink shell. It may still feel gritty from sand; rinse the muscle briefly under cold running water to remove any grit.
We opened ten scallops for two people: half were eaten raw in their shells, and the other half were simply sautéed in olive oil until golden and finished with a sprinkle of fleur de sel. Fresh, uncomplicated preparations let the sea’s flavor shine — a luxurious picnic that felt almost virtuous after the effort required to prepare them.
Final note: if this sounds a little harsh, remember that careful, respectful handling and prompt preparation are the best ways to honor the ingredient.