When our children were small, my husband John and I didn’t travel far. Living in southern New Jersey, we limited road trips to the East Coast. That worked well since my brother and his family lived in Maine, and we were devoted fans of Busch Gardens and Walt Disney World. A short drive north or south satisfied our desire to get away.
Then the inevitable happened: I caught the travel bug — full force.
I had just begun a new job in the travel industry, and discounted travel opportunities flowed in. In my first years as a travel agent I visited Paris, London, Montreal, San Francisco, Monterey and California’s Wine Country, all at a fraction of the usual cost. I became determined to share this passion with my husband. He wasn’t fond of flying at the time, due to a bad experience years earlier, so convincing him wasn’t easy. But I’d fallen in love with California’s scenery and culture and wanted him to experience it. Our 25th wedding anniversary was coming up — what better way to celebrate than a coastal California drive on the Pacific Coast Highway in a rented convertible, top down, ocean breeze in our hair?
He finally agreed, and soon he, too, was bitten by the travel bug — especially the California variety. We returned year after year until the West Coast became our home away from home.
By the time our 35th wedding anniversary approached, we were excited to celebrate in a place that felt familiar. Our itinerary left us a full day in San Francisco on the anniversary itself. After researching online, I suggested renting bikes and riding across the Golden Gate Bridge. John thought I’d lost my mind — we weren’t spring chickens — but my enthusiasm won out and a plan was made.
We planned to pick up bikes at Pier 41, enjoy the Bay Trail to the bridge, cross the Golden Gate, ride down to Sausalito for lunch, then take the ferry back to the city for dinner. It sounded perfect.
When we arrived to collect our bikes, the staff admired our ambition. An eight-mile ride, we thought. With maps and helmets, we set off on a beautiful day — crisp and breezy, about 40 degrees, as is often the case in an August San Francisco morning.
The Bay Trail was sunny and the views were breathtaking. As we neared the bridge, however, the climb at the base looked steep enough to give anyone pause. We reluctantly walked our bikes up, not wanting to be the only ones struggling. Many cyclists, even those in full gear, chose to walk as well. When we finally reached the bridge we were winded but thrilled — we were biking across the Golden Gate Bridge!
We hadn’t anticipated how crowded the bridge and its approaches would be. Pedestrians and cyclists filled the span, so progress was slow — but the scenery made every minute worth it. Past Vista Point the crowds thinned and we picked up speed. A few aggressive riders treated the route like a race; one clipped my husband and he tumbled. He dusted himself off, we repaired the bike, and he pressed on.
The brochures promise that… “just a 10-minute downhill ride will take you into the charming bayside town of Sausalito.”
They add: “take the curvy road down the hill. You will ride down Alexander Avenue and share the street with normal traffic. It is a relatively easy ride, as it is mainly downhill.”
What brochures don’t emphasize are the gusting crosswinds and the fact that parts of the road run right along the edge above steep drop-offs. I dismounted quickly and walked my bike down into town. John stayed on and raced ahead; once we rounded the bend and saw the sweeping bay views, we felt like kids again — high-fives all around. We’d done it.
We were ravenous. After securing the bikes we headed to one of our favorite Bay Area restaurants, Scoma’s, arriving as the dinner crowd was gathering. Close to 5 p.m., we opted to turn our planned city dinner into a Sausalito celebration instead. They seated us on the deck, and although it was a bit chilly, the view and the food were perfect. Fresh fish and a classic cioppino made our anniversary meal unforgettable.
After dinner we caught the 7 p.m. ferry — it turned out to be the last one of the evening — and enjoyed a peaceful, scenic ride back to the city. When we returned the bikes at Hyde Street, the rental staff greeted us with relief and amusement: “Here they are… they made it!” We hadn’t realized we looked so improbable to the younger crowd, or perhaps it was the late hour.
If you’re considering a similar outing, a few tips: rent bicycles in San Francisco — it’s worth it. Stick close to the water to avoid the steep hills; the terrain along the bay is flat, scenic, and keeps you near bike return points. If you prefer to avoid cycling across the Golden Gate, drive to Vista Point, park, and walk part of the bridge on foot. The total span is 1.7 miles, so plan how far you want to go and remember you’ll double back. And be sure to visit Sausalito — a charming seaside town full of shops, restaurants and beautiful views.
Now I’m thinking it’s time to book another flight west. Again.